March 14,
2008
Oh dear, I am falling behind in my updates to you
about all that is going on here at The Spanish Table. I missed last week, for which I sincerely
apologize, but the pace of business has quickened considerably on several
fronts and I should update you on these developments before any more time
passes.
First off, we have all been working long hours to
install a temporary outpost of The Spanish Table on the ground floor of Macy’s
in
Want more? There will be Flamenco dancers in the
menswear department. In housewares, Bay Area chefs such as Gerald Hirigoyen
(Piperade, Bocadillos), Maggie Pond (Cesar), Daniel Olivella (B-44) and Tyler
Florence (he’s Spanish, right?) will be demonstrating a broad range of Spanish
recipes with wine pairings hosted by our own Andy Booth. Bedding and furniture on the 7th
floor will feature a showing of black and white photographs of
Meanwhile, The Wine Advocate has just released
their latest reviews of several hundred Spanish wines including many of our
tried and trusted favorites. This influential publication always brings in new
customers interested in trying some of the wines they have just read about. For those of you who have already been trying
and buying, I thought it might be fun to compare what I said (and when I said
it) about some of the wines that are just now getting their justly deserved bit
of attention from The Wine Advocate.
Here we go:
7/12/07- I said:
Peique
Mencía 2006 $13.99 One of my favorite young Mencía grape wines from D.O. Bierzo has just arrived in the new
2006 vintage. Vibrant fresh cherry fruit character encounters dry autumn leaf
aroma and flinty background minerality. Perfect for summer cookouts in the back
yard or wherever you may be.
3/4/08 Jay Miller of The Wine Advocate wrote:
“90
Points-The 2006
Joven saw no oak. Dark ruby-colored, it offers an expressive bouquet of
mineral, blue fruits, and black cherry. Smooth, seamless, and elegant, this is
a superb introduction to the Mencia grape as well as an exceptional value.”
12/6/07- I said:
Can
Blau 2006 $17.99 The new vintage of this well loved red from the
Montsant region has just arrived. This dark, opulent blend of Cariñena, Syrah and Garnacha is ripe and bold yet balanced too. Previous vintages have all scored highly in
the press and the new vintage is right up there quality-wise. For a soul
warming winter meal, pour this with a traditional Cocido (the Spanish version of Italian ‘Bolito Misto’, or for you New Englanders, ‘Boiled Dinner’).
3/4/08 Jay Miller of The Wine Advocate wrote:
"92
points -The 2006 Can Blau is one of the finest values in the
marketplace. Composed of 40% Carinena, 40% Syrah, and 20% Garnacha, this
purple-colored wine has great aromatics for the price point. It offers up
smoke, pain grille, pencil lead, scorched earth, blueberry, black cherry, and
blackberry. Balanced, round, and ripe on the palate, the wine already reveals
some complexity and enough structure to blossom for another 2-3 years."
10/19/07- I said:
Senorio
de P.Peciña Crianza 2000 $18.99 Produced from a blend of mostly Tempranillo
with small additions of Garnacha and Graciano, this Crianza level wine spends
an extended period (2 years) ageing in French and American oak barrels, with an
additional year of bottle ageing before release. The bright cherry-like fruit
and resiny tannic barrel character that are typical of traditional Crianza
Riojas are present here in a finely tuned frame. Serve this wine with sliced
Serrano ham or cured Spanish chorizo for a classic flavor pairing.
3/4/08 Jay Miller of The Wine Advocate wrote:
“90 Points -The 2000 Pecina Crianza is 95%
Tempranillo with the balance Graciano and Garnacha from organically farmed
estate fruit. It was aged for 24 months in seasoned American oak before being
bottled unfiltered (as are all of these wines). Dark ruby-colored with a brick
rim, it exhibits a nose of cedar, earth, mushroom, tobacco, and blackberry.
This leads to a stylish, elegant wine with good concentration and depth that
should drink well for another 6 years. It is an excellent value in traditional
Rioja.”
9/6/07- I said:
Pétalos
2006 $23.99 The 2001 vintage of Pétalos was a profound
experience for me. I’d never previously tried any Mencía grape wines from D.O. Bierzo but this wine won me over
instantly with its combination of poise and power. Loamy dried leaf aroma and
berry-like fruit with deep, dark garnet color. Subsequent vintages have
reaffirmed my appreciation of this grape/region/producer. The 2005 was opulent and assertive. The new
2006 shows more elegance and precision.
3/4/08 Jay Miller of The Wine Advocate wrote:
"91
points -The 2006 Petalos del Bierzo is purple-colored with a
fragrant nose of violets, lavender, mulberry, and blueberry. Ripe, supple, and
sweetly fruited, it will evolve for 2-3 years and drink well through 2015. This
estate was started in 1998 by Alvaro Palacios. It has steep hillside vineyards
and 60- to 100-year-old vines planted in 100% Mencia, a varietal indigenous to
Bierzo, a cool-climate D.O."
11/8/07
– I said:
Alto Moncayo 2005 $43.00 Garnacha is the most widely planted red grape in Spain but you
won’t find many as good as what Alto Moncayo makes in D.O. Campo de Borja just
south of Rioja. Deep ruby color, extracted aromas of ripe berries and a bright,
spicy character that is a perfect match for red meat.
3/4/08 Jay Miller of The Wine Advocate wrote:
"95 points -The 2005 Alto Moncayo is
a selection of older Garnacha vineyards. Purple colored, it is more expressive
aromatically with enticing aromas of pain grille, spice box, floral notes,
black cherry and black raspberry. Richer, more layered, and intense, this
superb effort has a 60+ second finish."
10/19/07- I said:
Casta
Diva Cosecha Miel 2006 $28.99 It’s the time of year when a
little late harvest sweet wine is particularly appealing. The new vintage of
the celebrated Casta Diva is a lush Moscatel from the
3/4/08 Jay Miller of The Wine Advocate wrote:
"90
points -The 2006 Casta Diva “Cosecha Miel” Moscatel undergoes
barrel-fermentation in new oak which is gradually arrested for bottling in the
following spring. The nose offers up floral notes and honey along with peach,
apricot, ginger, and marmalade. Medium-sweet, intense, and long, this tasty
elixir will pair well with fruit desserts."
2/14/08-I
said:
Primitivo Quiles Fondillón Reserva
1948 $63.00
Historically, Fondillón was called Vino
Noble de Alicante not only because it was enjoyed by royalty (Louis XIV is
said to have enjoyed the wine) but also as an indication of a winemaking style
that achieves 16% alcohol by volume without resorting to fortification of the
wine with spirits as is done in Jerez.
Late
harvest Monastrell is picked at
ultimate ripeness and the sugars in the grape convert to alcohol at a higher
rate than normally. After many years in the solera
the wine looses its red color and turns a ruddy shade of amber. Nutty
sherry-like aroma and flavor balance gentle but not cloying sweetness. Serve
this wine with afternoon cookies and tea. A small glass after dinner is also
nice.
3/4/08 Jay Miller of The Wine Advocate wrote:
“93 Points -The 1948 Fondillon Gran Reserva is drawn from a solera
begun in 1948 but the wine is not fortified. Dark amber/brown in color, it has
aromas reminiscent of an Amontillado sherry including almonds, ginger, dates,
and assorted dried dark fruits. It finishes sherry-like but without the alcohol
and the bite. There is nothing else quite like this uniquely styled dry wine.”
March 21,
2008
I can always tell that spring has arrived in the
Bay Area when customers start buying white wine, large paella pans and gas
rings for cooking paella in the back yard. With the arrival of warmer sunny
weather it seems as though we, in unison, as if responding to some primal
instinct, turn our thoughts to outdoors cooking and eating.
Although it may not be sunny and warm on the East
Coast, Eric Asimov from The New York Times wrote an informative
article about the white wines of Rueda a few weeks ago and many of you have
responded enthusiastically by clipping the article and bringing it in to use as
a shopping guide. Of course we don’t have all the same wines in
Here is a recipe for a springtime paella that I
adapted from a recipe that one of the owners of The Spanish Table, Steve
Winston, included in The Spanish Table Cookbook.
Asparagus
and Shrimp Paella
(serves
4-5 as a main course)
Ingredients:
6 cups canned clam juice
1 Tblspn Pebrella (dried wild Spanish
thyme)
8 cloves garlic (half the
cloves lightly crushed and whole, the other half chopped)
1/3 cup Spanish olive
oil
1 lb. fresh Asparagus, cut in 1
inch segments
1 tspn. sweet Spanish paprika
1/2
tspn. Spanish saffron
1 ½ lb. large shrimp in the shell,
peeled and cut in half crosswise
2 cups Bomba rice
Directions:
Combine
the clam juice with the pebrella, shrimp shells and the lightly crushed garlic
cloves in a pot and simmer for 20 minutes. Strain the broth and continue to
simmer.
Heat
the olive oil in a 6 portion paella pan on the stove top. Sautee the asparagus
segments in the oil for one minute. Add the chopped garlic, saffron and paprika
and sauté for 30 seconds. Add the rice and stir to coat with the oil. Add all
the simmering stock to the paella pan and continue to cook at a medium simmer
for ten minutes. Add the shrimp and push down into the partly cooked rice.
Continue to cook the rice at a low simmer for an additional ten minutes. When
all the broth has been absorbed, turn off the heat and rest the paella for five
minutes before serving.
Las
Brisas Rueda 2006 $10.99 This fresh young blend of Verdejo and
Sauvignon Blanc is a wonderful ‘back yard white’. It is described well by The
new York Times as possessing “Citrus and herbal aromas with stony mineral flavors.”
Montebaco
Verdejo 2006 $14.99 (was $18.99) For those seeking 100% Verdejo
wine from Rueda, you will not find many as good as this for the price. Straw
colored with a green tinge, floral aroma and grapefruit-like flavor all combine
with bright acidity to create a refreshing and complex wine for springtime
dining. The New York Times gave this
wine 2 1/2 stars and described it as “Richly textured yet zesty with honeysuckle, pear and
citrus flavors.” The price just got better on this wine, but the
2006 vintage is coming to an end so this bargain will not last long.
Oro de
Castilla 2007 $14.99 The first of the 2007 Spanish white wines to arrive
in our store is this 100% Verdejo from Hermanos Villar in Rueda. Richly floral
in aroma yet crisp and bright on the palate, this new wine will please those
who know and love Rueda whites as well as newcomers to the varietal and the
region.
Solar de
Serrade Alvarinho 2006 $17.99 In Portugal, Vinho Verde is often
thought of (with good reason) as a simple, spritzy white wine for picnics and
parties. This Vinho Verde on the other hand is a whole different story. Made
from the Alvarinho grape (Albariño in
Verasol
Garnacha 2005 $8.99 (was $10.99) Here is another great bargain
in Spanish wine (red, this time) for springtime enjoyment. This young Garnacha
from the Campo de Borja region is youthful yet not simple. The fresh berry
fruit is moderated by a touch of minerality which adds complexity and
balance. This wine is a bit more reserved
than some others from the same grape and region, making it a more elegant
option than is common with young Garnacha.
The price just dropped a few dollars which is good news too.
Aresan
2002 $16.99 Do you want to taste the future of Spanish wine?
This is a good place to start. Bodegas Aresan, located in the Castilla-La
Mancha
This wine, for instance, is a blend of 65%
Tempranillo (a traditional variety in
March 27,
2008
At The Spanish Table in
Still, selecting wines from just the countries we
represent, I go through periods of intense interest in one style or region or
winemaker and I take home lots of wines from wherever/whatever/whomever is my
current obsession. Lately I have been really enjoying the wines from
Not so long ago Dão wines were often rustic, chunky
reds that displayed little in the way of freshness or complexity. These days,
and especially this time of year, I have been enjoying a range of Dão wines,
both young and more mature, that show off the improvements in quality for wines
from this region.
In Vinho Verde, as with Dão, the quality level is
rising with each year. Intrepid importers who once only shipped inexpensive,
non-vintage blends for summertime picnics now supply us with some top notch
varietal wines from this region on
As spring continues to unfold in the Bay Area I
find that these Portuguese wines match the season perfectly. Lively, youthful
aromas, bright fruit character and intriguing mineral notes pair wonderfully
with a springtime menu. These wines,
many of which have yet to be discovered by food and wine lovers in our little
corner of the globe, offer a clear sense of place with styles and characteristics
that are distinctly Portuguese.
To get a feeling for these wines, I suggest pairing
them with a typical Portuguese dish, and few foods in
Salt
Cod and Potato Casserole – adapted from The Food of Portugal by Jean Anderson
(Serves
6 as a main course)
Ingredients:
1 lb. Dried salt cod fillet
1 Large yellow onion
2 lbs.
1/3 cup Minced parsley
1
tblspn. Butter
3
tblspns. Portuguese olive oil
3 Hard boiled eggs,
peeled and cut in wedges
12 Oil cured black
olives, pitted
1
tblspn. Salt
1
tblspn. Ground black pepper
Directions:
One day
ahead, soak the Salt Cod in cold water, changing the water twice in 24 hours.
The
next day, drain the Cod and poach it in 1 quart of simmering water on the stove
for twenty minutes or until the fish starts to flake apart.
Preheat
the oven to 350 degrees. While waiting
for the oven to come up to temperature, slice the onion in thin rings and sauté
in a clay cazuela on the stove top with the butter and 1 tablespoon of the
olive oil until the onion has softened and taken on a bit of color. Remove the
onions when cooked. Peel and slice the potatoes in thin rounds and add them to
the cazuela with the rest of the olive oil. Sauté the potatoes until they start
to soften and fall apart. Mix in the cooked onions along with the salt, pepper
and half of the parsley. Tuck big flakes of the cod into the potato and onion
mixture. Top with the pitted olives and bake uncovered in the oven for 30-40
minutes until lightly browned on top. Remove from oven and garnish with wedges
of hard boiled eggs and the rest of the parsley. Serve with a green salad and
any of the wines below.
Broadbent Vinho Verde $10.99 An excellent example of top quality Vinho Verde. Composed
of 50% Loureiro, 40% Trajadura and 10% Padernã it is light in color with lemon and grapefruit aromas. On
the palate it offers more citrus as well as a bit of flinty minerality carried
along by slight effervescence that makes the wine refreshing and easy to drink.
Ponte
de Lima Adamado 2006 $9.99 This Vinho Verde is fresh and a bit fuller
bodied than some others from this region. The extra dollop of fruit character
is round and generous, adding weight to the flinty/spritzy Vinho Verde style. I
pair this with a composed salad of butter lettuce, white asparagus and top
shelf Ventresca tuna.
Solar
de Serrade Alvarinho 2006 $17.99 In Portugal, Vinho Verde is
often thought of (with good reason) as a simple, spritzy white wine for picnics
and parties. This Vinho Verde on the other hand is a whole different story.
Made from the Alvarinho grape (Albariño in
Quinta
dos Grilos 2005 $15.99 Grilo
is Portuguese for cricket, and while you won’t find any crickets in this wine,
the flavor may remind you of a warm summer night in the back yard, grilling
something tasty, swatting mosquitoes and listening to the (you guessed it)
crickets. From the Dao region of
Primavera
Dão 2003 $14.99 The Dao region was once among the most desirable
sources of quality red wines in
Cardeal Reserva 2002 $13.99 This Dão wine is made from 100%
Touriga Nacional, one of the traditional varieties used in