February
7, 2008
When I was a little kid at Briar Vista Elementary
School in Dekalb County Georgia, Valentine’s Day was celebrated by all the
school children decorating paper lunch bags with red and pink paper hearts and
taping them up in ‘home room’ on the radiator by the window to collect the
mostly pre-fab Valentine’s Day cards that would be purchased by the parents at
the local drug store for all us children to distribute amongst our classmates.
These days, I like to concentrate my Valentine
sentiments closer to home by cooking a special meal for my wife. Some fresh
flowers set the scene. A few thoughtfully chosen courses and an excellent wine
express my feeling better than words. A nice dessert rounds out my culinary
love letter.
If this is your idea of a good way to spend
Valentine’s Day, read on. We have a fabulous selection of special wines to woo
your sweetheart with, and a simple recipe for a classic Spanish dessert (with a
touch of my southern heritage) that will endear you to whomever you make it for.
Kevin’s
Buttermilk Flan (serves 4 or 2 with leftovers)
6 large eggs
1 &
1/2 cups Buttermilk
½ cup heavy cream
1
tblspn. Mexican Vanilla concentrate
½ cup sugar
1/2
tspn. salt
Divide
the sugar in half and add ¼ cup to a 9” clay cazuela. Place the cazuela on the
stove and heat over a medium flame without stirring until the sugar has melted
and turned a dark caramel color (it will start slow at first but do not walk
away lest you burn your sugar). Turn off the heat and let the cazuela cool. You
will have a hard caramel coating on the inside of the cazuela when you are
done.
Beat 4
whole eggs and 2 egg yolks together in a bowl with the sugar and salt until
blended. Add the vanilla, buttermilk and cream.
Mix well and strain through a fine sieve.
Preheat
your oven to 350 degrees. The flan needs to cook in a hot water bath, so place
the caramel coated cazuela in a larger oven proof container (I use a 10 inch
cake pan) and set on the middle rack of the oven. Fill the cazuela with the
flan mixture first, then fill the outer cake pan with boiling water to surround
the cazuela with gentle moist heat (do this in the oven so you do not have to
carry the sloshing flan and hot water bath to the oven). Cook for 30 minutes
and check for doneness. The flan should still be jiggly but not liquid when
fully cooked. If still undercooked, allow ten minutes more in the oven (take
the flan out of the oven before it sets completely or it will be dry and grainy).
Remove
the flan filled cazuela from the water bath and allow to cool completely
(refrigerated over night is best). To serve, run a sharp knife around the edge
of the flan to loosen it and invert the cazuela on a serving plate. Serve the
finished flan with sliced seasonal fruit and a nice glass of sweet wine.
Mont
Ferrant Brut Rosado Cava $14.99 I talk about this wine a lot,
but now is the perfect moment to serve this sparkling rosado. It’s pink and bubbly, which may be all you need for the
occasion, but this is also a deliciously berry scented yet still dry and
refreshing cava that not only looks
great in the glass but also offers up classic cava aroma and flavor at a reasonable price.
Can
Vendrell Brut Reserva Cava $17.99 One of
my favorite Cavas is back in stock! This classic blend of traditional Cava
grapes (Macabeo, Parellada, Xarel-lo), from
organic vineyards, with extended ageing on the lees and low dosage is a dry wine with great depth
and nuance. This is rich enough to serve with food, but dry enough to serve as
a cocktail.
Reymos
Espumoso de Moscatel $11.99 Sweet sparkling wine from D.O.
Valencia. Rich Muscat grape scent, honeydew melon fruit character and light but
persistent bubbles. A mere 7.5% alcohol makes this the perfect
end-of-meal wine. Serve alongside buttermilk flan (recipe above) for a nice
change of pace.
Dolç Mataró $33.99 (500ml) The
long forgotten Mataró grape, a relative of the better known Monastrell
is used to produce tiny quantities of this sweet dessert wine. Super-ripe
late harvest Mataró is hand selected, crushed and macerated in its own
juice to extract the maximum of color and flavor from the skins. After
fermentation the wine ages for a scant few months in barrel before bottling
with minimal filtration in stylish 500ml bottles. The final result is a sweet wine with opaque
purple color, the aroma of fresh violets and a sweet fruit character that for
all its intensity still possesses a certain delicacy.
Azua Reserva 2003 $12.99 In the Manchuela region of Castilla, just
southeast of
Riolanc Vendimia Seleccionada 2006 $10.99 Our newest Rioja is this
young wine from the Rioja Alavesa sub-zone, made from 100% old vine Tempranillo.
Whole bunch fermentation is used here to create a wine with great freshness and
bright fruit character. This is an excellent choice for weeknight suppers now.
When the weather warms up a bit I’ll be pouring this one in the back yard by
the paella fire.
February
14, 2008
Yes, it’s true. I’m in love with a grape.
The object of my affection is the big, juicy, dark,
thick skinned Monastrell grape grown throughout Mediterranean Spain (already
well known in France where it is called Mourvèdre, this grape is seen in the
wines of Bandol and Châteauneuf-du-Pape). In
Monastrell has become extremely sought after here
in the
This week I remind you about the 2005 Clio, a
Monastrell blend that has seriously impressed the wine world in recent
vintages. We have also just received a second shipment of the 2005 Juan Gil, a
100% Monastrell that showcases the varietal all by itself. The 2005 Casa
Castillo, one of the first Monastrell wines to be bottled as a single varietal
wine is back at a better price. I also
have late harvest Monastrell from Alella (just outside of
Also this week, we have some tasty bargains that
offer big flavor at a small price. Check out the Bodegas Fontana wines below to
see what I mean.
In other news, Paella Class is filling up fast, but
a few spaces still remain for any of you who wish to learn about this most
famous of Spanish dishes. We will be making and eating a big paella accompanied
by some tapas to nibble on while the paella cooks. We will also taste five
Spanish wines to go with all the food. The date is February 25th at
6:30 pm. The location is Kitchen On Fire cooking School here in
Mesta Tempranillo 2006 $6.99 (was
$8.99) Our newest
‘house wine’ comes from Bodegas Fontana in central
In Spanish shepherd-speak a ‘mesta’ is a meeting of
shepherds to sort out intermingled flocks. This young Tempranillo from central
Fontal Tempranillo Roble 2004
$9.99 (was $11.99) This
wine from Bodegas Fontana (like the previous wine) shows what a bit of barrel
age does to Tempranillo. The fresh berry fruit character is now nuanced with
gentle tannins and spicy aromatic complexity.
Casa Castillo 2005 $10.99 (was $12.99) This is a dark ruby colored wine
with bright aromas of fresh red berries, and a medium to full-bodied
cherry-like fruit character. A brief
period of oak barrel ageing (6- 8 months) lends a bit of tannic dryness to the
wine, adding balance to the rich fruit and a bit of spice to the finish.
Juan Gil 2005 $16.99 We just got in a second shipment
of this popular Monastrell from Jumilla, made by Miguel Gil, one of the
pioneers of this grape and this region. Dark color and concentrated blackberry
aroma create the first impression, leading on to sweet dark berry fruit
character and a touch of grape skin tannin. A fine example of a pure Monastrell
wine.
Raspay Tinto “Brut” 2001 $19.99 In the Alicante region along the
Mediterranean coast of
Clio
2005 $46.00 Old vine Monastrell
from Jumilla is what Clio is mostly made from (along with 30% Cabernet Sauvignon). These thick skinned
grapes are picked at full ripeness and treated with great care at every step in
this wine’s elaboration. The end result is a dark, full bodied red that will
best accompany a full-flavored meaty meal. Josh
Raynolds recently reviewed the new vintage of Clio for The International Wine Cellar. He rated the wine 93 points saying: “Inky purple. Vibrant red and dark berries on the nose, with sexy
vanillin oak, Asian spices, fresh flowers and bright minerality. A silky,
graceful midweight, displaying vivid raspberry and blackberry flavors and
slow-building tannic grip. More tangy than the 2004, and at least as elegant,
finishing with outstanding clarity and persistence.”
El Nido
2005 $140.00 The flagship wine from this celebrated Jumilla
region winery is made from the same fruit as the Clio but the proportions are
switched around. El Nido is mostly Cabernet
Sauvignon with 30% old vine Monastrell.
Josh Raynolds also reviewed this
wine for Steven Tanzer’s International Wine
Cellar. He rated it 94 points,
saying “Opaque violet. Seductively perfumed bouquet of red
and dark berry liqueur, graphite, Asian spices and incense. This saturates
every nook and cranny of the palate with flavors of sweet raspberry,
boysenberry, candied licorice, cinnamon and vanilla. Impressively fresh for
such flavor impact, thanks to gentle tannins and vibrant finishing minerality.
A lingering, subtle strawberry quality underscores this wine's impression of
elegance over brute force.”
Dolç Mataró $33.99 (500ml) The
long forgotten Mataró grape, a relative of the better known Monastrell
is used to produce tiny quantities of this sweet dessert wine.
Super-ripe late harvest Mataró is hand selected, crushed and macerated
in its own juice to extract the maximum of color and flavor from the skins.
After fermentation the wine ages for a scant few months in barrel before
bottling with minimal filtration in stylish 500ml bottles. The final result is a sweet wine with opaque
purple color, the aroma of fresh violets and a sweet fruit character that for
all its intensity still possesses a certain delicacy.
Primitivo Quiles Fondillón Reserva
1948 $63.00
Historically, Fondillón was called Vino
Noble de Alicante not only because it was enjoyed by royalty (Louis XIV is
said to have enjoyed the wine) but also as an indication of a winemaking style
that achieves 16% alcohol by volume without resorting to fortification of the
wine with spirits as is done in Jerez.
Late
harvest Monastrell is picked at
ultimate ripeness and the sugars in the grape convert to alcohol at a higher
rate than normally. After many years in the solera
the wine looses its red color and turns a ruddy amber. Nutty sherry-like aroma
and flavor balance gentle but not cloying sweetness. Serve this wine with
afternoon cookies and tea. A small glass after dinner is also nice.
February
21, 2008
Good wines, like fresh fruits and vegetables, come
and go with the seasons.
In this age of identical commodity products made in
vast quantities we often forget that many wines, especially those from the
small artisan wineries we love at The Spanish Table, are made in quantities
determined by the amount of fresh fruit available to the winemakers and the
amount of space they have to make wine from the fruit at harvest time. When
these wines are gone, they are gone for good.
It is always a sad moment when one of my favorite
wines runs out. Fortunately we always have new wines on hand just waiting for
shelf space to open up and give these new products a chance in the marketplace.
This week I am making room for new wines by marking
down some products that we are no longer able to re-order. These wines are the
last of their vintage or are from distributors who no longer carry these
brands. I have marked these wines down in price to give you more than ample
reason to pick up a few while they are still available. The mutual benefit here
is that you get some tasty bottles for not much money and I get shelf space to
bring in yet more new products for you to try.
So come take a look at our new ‘get them while they
last’ section and pick out a few of these beauties before they are all gone.
Speaking of almost gone, the last few spots in next
week’s Paella & Wine class are getting claimed as I write. If you have some
free time on Monday evening (6:30 pm – 9:30 pm)
click over to Kitchen On Fire
and sign up for this tasty hands-on
event.
Here is an example of the type of seasonal dish we
will be preparing in class while waiting for the paella to cook:
Blood
(serves 4 as a tapa)
4 Medium sized Blood
oranges
1 large fennel bulb
1 small white onion
12 Oil cured black
olives
2
tblspn . Spanish
extra virgin olive oil
1
tblspn. Spanish Sherry vinegar
1 tspn. Flor
de Sal
Peal
the oranges with a kitchen knife and either fillet them (cut into skinless
sections) or thinly cross cut them into rounds. Slice the fennel and onion into
thin rounds (a mandolin slicer works well here, but watch those fingers!).
Rinse the onion slices in cold water and pat dry with a towel. Pit the olives and tear them in half. Mix
everything together in a shallow dish. Add the oil and vinegar and any leftover
blood orange juice and toss the salad. Sprinkle on the sea salt and let the
salad rest for 10 minutes before serving.
Viña
Alarba Old Vines Grenache 2005 $6.99 Our newest
‘house wine’ comes from the Calatayud region in
Casabayo
Tempranillo/Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 $8.99 Those dynamic young
winemakers at Mas que Vinos, makers of
the ever popular and always delicious Ercavio Tinto and Ercavio Blanco, made
this wine from a blend of Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon. The hot 2003
vintage has given this wine with enough stuffing (ripe fruit, dark color, bright acidity) to last several vintages. We have just a few
bottles left.
Gárgola
2003 $8.99 Extremadura is known for two things: Jamón Iberico
and Vino Tinto. We are still waiting for
the Jamón Iberico to arrive, but meanwhile we can enjoy this red wine while we
wait. I like this blend of Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah for its
restrained fruit and lean structure. It will turn any jamón deprived gargoyle
into a perfect little cherub.
Calina
Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 $9.99 The Rapel Valley is the source
of some of the best Cabernet Sauvignon in
Finca
Antigua Syrah 2004 $9.99 In the heart of
Baranc
dels Closos 2002 $13.99 Mas Igneus makes many well crafted wines
in Priorat, including this lightly oaked blend of Garnacha and Cariñena. The
rocky Priorat soil is evident in this firmly mineral wine. Dark
garnet color. Notes
of pie cherry and Kirsch (cherry brandy). More rocks on the finish.
Pissares
2003 $14.99 A fabulous bargain from Priorat is a rare find
indeed. Most of the wines from this region are on the high side price-wise. Stylistically,
this one tips its hand right away with a photo on the label of the slate and
schist soil that is typical in Priorat. Mineral aromas and flavors of wet slate
are a distinct element in this rich red wine. Other elements include dark,
almost opaque color, rich cassis (black currant liqueur) aroma and fruit
character reminiscent of blackberries and blueberries.
February
28, 2008
‘Fresh’ and ‘young’ are desirable qualities in food
and fashion. Everyone wants the latest new thing. But what happens when the hot
new trend is celebrated for its age and maturity?
Try this little experiment. Say to your favorite
person, “Wow, honey. That’s a fantastic outfit. You look ten years older.” Not
such a good idea, right?
Now try this: “Darling, would you like another
glass of 1964 Gran Reserva Rioja to go with your slow cured Jamón Iberico?”
Ah, much better!
You see, the food world rewards those who
appreciate the complexity that comes with age (what else in life works like
this?).
Several perfect examples of age equaling beauty
have just arrived in our little store. I speak of course of the long awaited
Jamón Iberico. This Spanish cured ham from the rare breed of pig known as Pata
Negra (Black Foot) has finally landed in
A perfect accompaniment to these very exclusive
cured meats is mature, aged Gran Reserva Rioja from an excellent but long past
vintage. We are happy to report that a batch of some of the best Rioja from the
past 60 years is arriving at The Spanish Table.
Another option: Cava, that delicious Spanish
sparkling wine, ages for several years in the bottle before release. This too
makes for a memorable combination when paired with some Jamón Iberico.
Doubt me? You can test this out for yourself on Thursday
March 6th when we will be offering a Cava and Jamón tasting in our
Mill valley store from 6pm-7:30pm. The cost for this exclusive tasting is just
$12. Call the
Speaking of our
“The family owned Lopez de Heredia winery has been making beautifully
aged Rioja since it’s founding in 1877. They pride themselves on
continuing the tradition that Rafael Lopez de Heredia y Landeta
started. We have ordered a handful of these wines direct from the winery
and they are scheduled to arrive at the beginning of March. We are
offering a presell on the wines before they arrive. They are all
extremely limited in availability. If interested, please give us a call
or email. The presell price is available only until the wines arrive.
1942 Vina Bosconia Gran Reserva:
$840, presell price $750 (only 1 available)
1947 Vina Bosconia Gran Reserva:
$785, presell price $705 (only 1 available)
(The 1942 & 1947 Vina Bosconia are considered by many who have tried the
wines extensively two of their best wines produced.)
1970 Vina Bosconia Gran Reserva:
$206, presell price $184 (12 available)
1970 Vina Tondonia Gran Reserva:
$206, presell price $184 (2 available)
1976 Vina Bosconia Gran Reserva:
$125, presell price $112 (12 available)
1981 Vina Bosconia Gran Reserva:
$89, presell price $78 (4 available)
1981 Vina Tondonia Gran Reserva:
$104, presell price $93 (4 available)
1976 Vina Tondonia Blanco Gran Reserva:
$120, presell price $107 (2 available)
This pairs perfectly with the chanterelle & gremolata pizza from Chez
Panisse (as we did last weekend)
1981 Vina Tondonia Blanco Gran Reserva:
$89, presell price $78 (8 available)”
Meanwhile, here in
Also, for those looking for a bargain, we have some
new ‘house wine’ as well as a new Monastrell from Almansa and the new vintage
of a popular and, yes, youthful blend of Garnacha and Tempranillo from Navarra.
Infinitus
Chardonnay/Viura 2006 $6.99 This white ‘house wine’ makes a repeat
appearance here after a popular run in the last vintage. Infinitus, made by the
same folks who bring you Finca Antigua and Conde de Valdemar, is a fresh and
floral blend of Viura and the more well known Chardonnay. Crisp citrus flavors
from the Viura encounter fuller melon flavors from the Chardonnay.
Valcanto
Monastrell 2005 $10.99 This new Monastrell comes from Bodegas
Piquera in Almansa. A bit fresher than the ripe, concentratedMonastrell wines from neighboring Jumilla and
Yecla to the south, with lighter balance and leaner fruit character.
Ochoa
Garnacha/Tempranillo 2006 $12.99 This is always a great wine
for weeknight suppers and informal gatherings. The new vintage of this bright,
berry scented blend from Navarra is refreshing and fruity but not cloying or
sweet. A fine example of the ‘tinto
joven’ style found in countless little bars all across
Pago de
Carraovejas Crianza 2005 $39.99
Pago de
Carraovejas Reserva 2005 $64.00
They are back again! Pago de Carraovejas is the
name of a single vineyard on the outskirts of Peñafiel in the Ribera del Duero
region of
The 2005 Reserva omits the Merlot from the previous
blend in favor of a 90/10 split between Tinto
Fino and Cabernet Sauvignon. Using hand selected bunches of very ripe
fruit, this wine spends its first twelve months of life ageing in French oak.
Currently less expressive than the Crianza, the Reserva is intended for long
term storage. With time, it will reveal a core of sweet dark berry fruit which
at present is cloaked in assertive tannins. For immediate gratification, decant
this wine a full day ahead of when you want to drink it.