03/02/07

Parker Points

Robert Parker’s The Wine Advocate, the most widely recognized wine review periodical, devoted a good portion of their latest issue to the wines of Spain. 

Suddenly, every wine shop in the country is avidly buying and promoting highly scoring Spanish brands.

It feels great to be a Spanish wine store this week.

If you are getting this newsletter, you probably don’t need to be told that Spanish wines are some of the best out there in terms of quality and price, but we like to bask in the pleasure of being the ‘it’ wine region, so here is some of what Jay Miller had to say in this month’s Wine Advocate:

 

“Spanish wines continue to be red-hot. As this review will detail, there are hundreds of terrific wines available for under $20, many of those for less than $12.”

 

“Another positive trend is the ongoing reclamation of indigenous varietals. Prominent among them are Mencia, grown in Bierzo, Graciano in Rioja, Bobal in Vino de la Tierra de Castilla and Utiel Requena, Verdejo in Rueda, Albarino in Rias Baixas, Hondarribi Zuri in Txakoli, and Godello in Valdeorras. These can be fascinating and unique expressions at very nice prices.”

 

“If I were a budding wine collector with limited discretionary income, I would be laying in cases of 2001s and 2004s from Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Priorat, Toro, and Montsant. The top wines from these regions will reward extended cellaring and, with just a handful of exceptions, cost less than $50-60 a bottle.”

 

But wait, it gets even better.

While most of the industry attention is being paid to the latest Spanish wine reviews, the same edition of The Wine Advocate also contains the first ever, for them, overview of Portuguese wines. For this initial foray into the table wines of Portugal, Mark Squires focuses primarily on the red wines of D.O.C. Douro, another region of the Iberian Peninsula that will be familiar to readers of this newsletter.

Here is some of what Mark Squires had to say:

 

“Whether you are a shell-shocked consumer looking for alternatives to soaring prices in familiar regions, or just someone wanting new experiences in wine, one good answer might be the dry, red table wines of Portugal.”

 

“If these wines have been flying under your radar, don’t feel guilty – even Douro winemakers describe an industry that is changing constantly and quickly, and only recently developing a respectable number of fine, artisanal wine producers.”

 

“Today, Portugal maintains an interesting blend of old and new. Modern techniques often seem to go together with old traditions. Many of the producers still have the grapes foot trodden at harvest time, for instance. The modern equipment is often right nearby.”

 

“Finally, from what I saw and tasted, in Portugal and in the USA, Portugal’s time would definitely seem to be now. Simply put, the train is rolling down the tracks and gathering speed. It’s time to take a ride.”

 

Take a ride indeed. This week, wine retailers all across the country are getting on board with distributors of Iberian wines that scored highly in The Wine Advocate.

The Spanish table is very proud to already have many of these wines in stock. Some, like the 100 point (a perfect score) Clos Erasmus 2004 were sold out by the end of the first day that the reviews came out. Many others, including numerous wines under $20 are still here for you to try for yourself.

Here are just a few highlights from the latest Wine Advocate reviews:

 

 

Mas Doix Doix Costers de Vinyes Velles 2004 $115.00 “Deep purple, the aromas are other-worldly with truffle, tar, graphite, kirsch, and wild blueberry among the array of scents leaping from the glass.98 points.”

 

Numanthia 2004 $58.00 “The wine is a glass-coating opaque purple with a killer nose of mineral, pencil lead, wild blueberry, and blackberry liqueur that roars from the glass. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, dense, and already beginning to show complexity within its layers of spicy black fruits.98 Points

 

Alion 2002 $72.00 “Saturated purple in color, it offers up an exotic nose of coconut, espresso, herbs, black currants and cherries. Rich and complex on the palate with lots of glycerin and layers of black fruit flavors, it has a pure, long finish that goes on and on. 94 Points.”

 

Quinta Do Vallado Reserva 2003 $42.99 …opens beautifully, with a touch of game, and seductive texture. It was easily my favorite of the wines reviewed here. It has a carefully constructed mid-weight, mid-palate that matches its structure. It has plenty of tannins for aging ability, but is not overbearing or unduly astringent. Precise, flavorful and intense, it shows some brightness and a little sweetness on the finish, too. 92 Points.”

 

Dorado Alvarinho 2004 $21.99 “…a single Quinta wine from a 70-year-old vineyard in the sub-region of Moncao that receives no oak aging. It has unusual depth for Vinho Verde, and this is not exactly your light, “barely there,” version of the wine. It is obviously trying to make a statement. It is crisp and steely, solid in the mid-palate and penetrating on the finish. 91 Points.”

 

Pasanau Ceps Nous 2005 $24.99… produced from the estate’s youngest vines. Purple-colored, it exhibits a fragrant bouquet of smoked meat, lead pencil, blueberry, blackberry, and licorice. Full-bodied, the wine is layered and packed with mouth-filling black fruits intertwined with ripe tannins. 91 Points.”

 

Hecula 2004 $11.99Exhibiting aromas of toasty black fruits with milk chocolate in the background, this is a super-rich effort with terrific depth and concentration for its humble price. It is a remarkable value for drinking over the next few years. 91 Points.”

 

Quinta do Crasto Tinto 2003 $18.99Ripe and succulent, it is bursting with flavorful fruit, tinged with red berry nuances. The texture is velvety and appealing, and the wine has fine structure, and a lively demeanor, including significant grip on the finish. 90 Points.”

 

Peique Joven 2005 $12.99Dark ruby-colored, it exhibits a fragrant, fruity bouquet of spicy black currants and blueberry that jumps from the glass. This medium-bodied, supple-textured, easy-drinking wine might be considered Spain’s version of Pinot Noir. Not only is it user-friendly, it is also a great value. 90 Points.”

 

 

03/09/07

Parker Points Part II

 

As we mentioned last week, Robert Parker’s The Wine Advocate, the most widely recognized wine review periodical, devoted a good portion of their latest issue to the wines of Spain and Portugal.  Getting a good review in The Wine Advocate is a huge deal for winemakers as it can create enormous demand for a wine. The Spanish reviews by Jay Miller have been big news in the wine world this past week because of the generally high scores of so many Spanish wines, including an unprecedented number of perfect 100 point scores (5 in total).  Additionally, The Wine Advocate has never devoted part of an issue to the table wines of Portugal, so this will be seen as a watershed moment for producers of Portuguese wines, especially for those in the Douro region where the reviewer Mark Squires focused his attention for the most part.

Last week we featured mostly the top end of the scores as well as the higher priced wines. Another useful aspect of The Wine Advocate reviews are the value priced wines that score in the 80s and 90s. These wines are excellent examples of winemaking skill at very reasonable prices.

So, this week we will feature wines that cost less than $20 that scored highly in the latest Wine Advocate.  Here are some suggestions from our current inventory:

 

Red Wine:

 

Corpus del Muni Roble 2004 $15.99 “The 2004 Corpus del Muni Roble is a blend of 75% Tempranillo, 20% Syrah, and 5% Garnacha. The vineyards average 70 years of age and the wine is aged in French and American oak. A superb value, this dark ruby-colored wine has smoky/toasty aromatics, spice, and an abundance of blue and black fruits in its broad personality. The fruit is ripe and sweet, the tannins silky, and the finish long and pure. Drink this tasty effort over the next 2-4 years. 90 Points.”

 

Ercavio Roble 2005 $10.99 “The 2005 Ercavio Roble is a remarkable value. Produced from 100% Cencibel (Tempranillo), this is a custom cuvee selected by importer Eric Solomon, and was aged for 5 months in French and American oak. Purple colored, with fragrant spice box, tobacco, blueberry, and blackberry aromas, this full-bodied effort has gobs of ripe fruit, a firm structure, and a 40-second finish, not bad value for a sawbuck. Although this well-made wine will surely evolve for 2-3 years, who will have the patience? This is one to purchase by the case. 90 Points.”

 

Hécula 2004 $11.99Exhibiting aromas of toasty black fruits with milk chocolate in the background, this is a super-rich effort with terrific depth and concentration for its humble price. It is a remarkable value for drinking over the next few years. 91 Points.”

 

Luna Beberide Mencía 2005 $14.99 “The 2005 Luna Beberide Mencia (100% varietal) is a worthy successor to the 2004 and a top value in quality Bierzo. Dark ruby-colored, it exhibits a fragrant nose of crushed flowers (violets), mineral, and blueberry. This is followed by an elegant, medium-bodied wine with a velvety palate-feel, plenty of spicy blue fruits, and light, well-integrated tannin. Drink this well-made wine over the next 1-2 years. 89 Points.”

 

Mas Donís Barrica 2004 $13.99 “The 2004 Mas Donis Barrica is 85% Garnacha from 80+-year-old vines and 15% Syrah aged for 8 months in French and American oak. Opaque purple, it has a wonderfully expressive nose of spice box, pencil lead, pepper, blueberry, and blackberry liqueur. On the palate the wine is full-bodied with layers of ripe, spicy black fruits, nicely concealed tannins, and a long, pure finish. It is an outstanding value for drinking now and over the next 4-6 years. 90 Points.”

 

Peique Joven 2005 $13.99Dark ruby-colored, it exhibits a fragrant, fruity bouquet of spicy black currants and blueberry that jumps from the glass. This medium-bodied, supple-textured, easy-drinking wine might be considered Spain’s version of Pinot Noir. Not only is it user-friendly, it is also a great value. 90 Points.”

 

Semele Crianza 2004 $17.99 “The 2004 Semele is 90% Tempranillo and 10% Merlot aged for 12 months in used French and American oak. This purple-colored wine has a fragrant bouquet of cedar, spice box, blueberry, and blackberry which jumps from the glass. Medium-bodied with some elegance, it has a streamlined style with ample fruit, good acidity, and ripe tannin, all of which are nicely balanced. This well-made wine should continue to evolve for 2-3 years and drink well for a decade. It is also an excellent value. 89 Points.”

 

Torremorón 2005 $11.99 “The 2005 Torremoron is an unoaked cuvee of 100% Tempranillo from 60- to 90-year-old vines. Medium ruby-colored, it has a terrific perfume of wild berries including raspberry, strawberry, and cherry. On the palate the wine is youthful, very concentrated and structured. The finish is long and fruity. It seems unlikely that many people will cellar a $10 wine but this amazing effort should continue to evolve for 1-2 years. Drink it with pleasure over the next 3-4 years. It is an outstanding value. 90 Points.”

 

White Wine:

 

Avinyó Brut Reserva Cava $15.99 “The non-vintage Brut Reserva, made from Macabeu, Parellada, and Xarel-lo, is aged 18 to 22 months on the lees before being disgorged. A fruity, yeasty nose is followed by a wine with crisp notes of pear and peach. The finish is surprisingly long. 89 Points.”

 

Mesache Blanco 2005 $ 11.99 “The 2005 Mesache Blanco is an intriguing blend of 35% late-harvested Macabeo, 35% Gewurztraminer, and 30% Chardonnay fermented and aged in stainless steel. Light gold in color, the bouquet of this crisp, refreshing effort is given a lift by the Gewurztraminer component. In addition to the lychees, there is a hint a banana and other tropical fruits. On the palate, this dry, medium-bodied wine is surprisingly ripe, rich, and long. Drink it over the next two years. 90 Points.”

 

Oro de Castilla 2005 $14.99 “The 2005 Oro de Castilla is 100% Verdejo fermented and raised in stainless steel. Medium straw-colored, it offers lovely aromas of melon, honey, and citrus with a hint of mineral in the background. It is almost creamy on the palate with excellent depth and richness, lacking only the complexity necessary to merit an outstanding rating. Drink it over the next 2 years. 87 Points.”

 

Sherry:

 

La Gitana Manzanilla $11.99 (500ml.) “Among the single solera sherries, the pale-colored dry, salty La Gitana Manzanilla is a terrific aperitif. 88 Points.”

 

Maestro Sierra Fino $13.99 (375ml.) “The non-vintage Fino offers up aromas and flavors of sea salt and roasted nuts. It is excellent as an aperitif or as an accompaniment to sushi. 90 Points.”

 

Hidalgo Alameda Cream Sherry $15.99 “The Alameda Cream is dark amber and medium sweet with creme brulee aromas and flavors, a far classier drink than what your grandmother used to imbibe. 91 Points

 

 

 

 

03/15/07

New Arrivals

As winter gives way to spring, new wines continue to arrive in abundance here at The Spanish Table. The new vintages of highly scored wines from the recent Wine Advocate are arriving weekly in our store. Other unsung brands are on our shelves just waiting to be discovered by you, with a little help from your knowledgeable, enthusiastic and always friendly Spanish Table staff.

The ‘house wine’ section has proved to be a popular concept that continues to grow as we find new value priced wines to include in this new section. Our latest ‘house wines’ are the amazing bargains from Infinitus.

Infinitus is the brand name for a line of wines from the V.T. Castilla region in central Spain. The winery in this case is Cosecheros Y Criadores, one branch of the Martinez Bujanda group that also produces Finca Antigua, Conde de Valdemar and Finca Valpiedra. The grapes for all the Infinitus wines come from vineyards in Castilla. The grapes are crushed and fermented at the Finca Antigua winery in La Mancha and then are transported to the Cosecheros Y Criadores winery in Oyón (Rioja Alavesa)for further elaboration and bottling.  This team approach to winemaking reduces production costs which in turn help keep down the final retail price of the wines. The winemaker for Infinitus wines is Lauren Rosillo, the same gentleman who is responsible for the Finca Antigua wines. Infinitus shares the same commitment to quality that is found in all the Martinez Bujanda wines. We are proud to include them in our new ‘house wines’ section and are confident that you will appreciate them in the same spirit that you enjoy our other ‘house wines’ (don’t forget that mix and match 12 bottle cases of ‘house wines’ are discounted to $5.99 per bottle).

We also just received a handful of Spanish rarities that will only be available for a brief time. These wines are some of the best examples of modern Spanish winemaking skill and will appeal to collectors and adventure seekers alike.

 

New House Wines:

Infinitus Tempranillo 2005 $6.99 Fresh, youthful aroma, bright cherry-like fruit character and gentle grape skin tannins in the background. Excellent with rice or pasta dishes.

 

Infinitus Syrah 2005 $6.99 Dark garnet color, spicy herbal aroma and rich, full-bodied black cherry fruit character. Pass the cork screw and fire up the grill!

 

Infinitus Viura/Chardonnay 2005 $6.99 Crisp, young white wine made from a 50/50 blend of tank fermented (no oak) Viura and Chardonnay. Fresh citrus and green apple fruit character. The perfect back porch cocktail.

 

Vall Major Blanco 2004 $6.99 This D.O. Terra Alta white wine is produced from 100% Macabeo grapes. Pale straw color, grapefruit aroma and tart green grape fruit character.  A composed salad of spring lettuces and Spanish ventresca tuna with a sherry vinaigrette would make a nice accompaniment.

 

Collector’s Wines:

El Nido Clio 2004 $44.99 The 2004 Clio has arrived! With a 97 Point score from The Wine Advocate, this wine will sell out fast. Jay Miller says “The 2004 Clio is 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 70% Monastrell (from 63-year-old vines) which received malolactic fermentation in new oak followed by 26 months of aging in new French and American barriques. A glass-coating opaque purple, it exhibits a sensational nose of earth, mushroom, leather, blueberry, and blackberry jam. On the palate the wine is supple-textured, complex, with vibrant flavors of spicy blue and black fruits and a big-time WOW factor. This is a totally hedonistic effort with exceptional length and balance. It is remarkably light on its feet for such a powerful wine.”

 

Laurel 2004 $40.99 We received a small amount of this stunning D.O.Q Priorat from the makers of Clos Erasmus. The Wine Advocate gave this one 94 Points, saying “The 2004 Laurel is 55% Grenache, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Syrah. Purple-colored, it offers up a lovely nose of cassis, blackberry, and black currant. Layered and full-flavored, the wine has superb balance and length. It is a fine introduction to the style of Clos Erasmus but distribution is very limited.”

 

Aljibes 2005 $23.99 From V.T.  Castilla, this dry, earthy red wine is an excellent example of the regional style.  Serve this with a traditional Gazpacho Manchego (game bird and tomato stew thickened with crumbled traditional flat bread). The Wine Advocate gave it 90 points.  Jay Miller says “The 2003 Aljibes, which spent 9 months in new French and American oak, is composed of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. It could easily pass as a Bordeaux impersonator. Dark ruby-colored, it offers up an excellent bouquet of pain grille, vanilla bean, and spicy black currants. On the palate it presents a supple-textured personality with generous quantities of black fruit flavors, excellent balance, ripe tannins, and a long, pure finish. This outstanding value should continue to evolve for 4-6 years and drink well through 2020.”

 

Pegaso 2002 $35.99 Celebrated winemaker Telmo Rodriguez makes this V.T. Castilla wine in a long neglected wine making region just outside of the small town of Cebreros, about an hour west of Madrid. Pegaso is a 100% Garnacha wine produced from the old-vine fruit from estate vineyards. A rocky mineral quality underlies the rich, dark berry fruit character (Barrancos de Pizarra translates literally as ‘slate cliffs’). This potent, 15% alcohol, inky dark wine is bold and concentrated yes, but also quite balanced and poised, due in large part to the sense of terruño coming from this same minerality.

To highlight the rather wild sophistication of this wine, serve it with duck or other game birds and slow cooked white beans.

 

 

03/22/07

El Bierzo

Remember that Bierzo wine you had last Thanksgiving? Well, Bierzo season has returned, especially now that winter is turning into spring.
ElBierzo is located in northwestern Spain on the western border of León province, squeezed in between Asturias and Galicia. The Romans mined gold here for centuries, literally washing away entire mountains in their search for the precious metal. The 'Las Médulas Cultural Landscape' in El Bierzo is a fascinating example of Roman era environmental depletion now protected as a Unesco World Heritage site.
Wine making in El Bierzo was geared toward local consumption until 1989 when the region was officially demarcated. Now the wine world is taking notice of the
unique wines of this region. Today, El Bierzo, once known for its precious metal, is becoming increasing popular for its unique wines and precious grape.
The Mencía grape is the predominant variety in D.O. Bierzo and produces wines that tend to be light in color and possess gentle fruit character, lively acidity and dry minerality. Bierzo wines generally display less concentration and extraction than wines from further south, which is why they are such perfect accompaniments to springtime meals. In El Bierzo, one gastronomic treat is the androlla, a meat dish that is made with a pig's rib marinated with garlic, paprika and salt.
If we have yet to tempt you to try Bierzo wines, now is your chance. We have some new wines in our store right now as well as new vintages of old favorites that have recently come in.

 

Los Bayos Roble 2004 $10.99 The Los Bayos Roble 2004 is a youthful, lively Mencía wine that sees eight months of barrel age prior to bottling, adding a bit of additional tannic complexity to the cranberry-like fruit character and leafy aroma already present in the wine.

 

Castro Bergidum Godello 2004 $12.99 In neighboring D.O. Valdeorras the white Godello grape produces elegant subtle wines with balance and poise. In D.O. Bierzo the same attributes apply, but here the mineral aspect of the variety is more pronounced and serves to moderate the melon and green plum fruit character of the wine. This is the only white Bierzo available to us at the present time.

 

Peique 2005 $12.99 This popular young Bierzo is ripe, floral, earthy and uncomplicated. This friendly wine is ready to pair with poultry, composed salads and a variety of hot and cold tapas. Jay Miller of The Wine Advocate gave it 90 Points  and saidDark ruby-colored, it exhibits a fragrant, fruity bouquet of spicy black currants and blueberry that jumps from the glass. This medium-bodied, supple-textured, easy-drinking wine might be considered Spain’s version of Pinot Noir. Not only is it user-friendly, it is also a great value.”

 

Luna Beberide Mencía 2005 $14.99 A bold young Bierzo, full of tangy pie cherry fruit and just a touch of loamy earth aroma. This is a perfect wine to serve with grilled and/or spicy food. The recent Wine Advocate review awarded 89 points to this wine saying “Dark ruby-colored, it exhibits a fragrant nose of crushed flowers (violets), mineral, and blueberry. This is followed by an elegant, medium-bodied wine with a velvety palate-feel, plenty of spicy blue fruits, and light, well-integrated tannin.”

 

Pucho 2005 $14.99 This is a new arrival here in Berkeley that displays all the classic elements of high quality Bierzo wine. Crystaline ruby color,dry leaf aroma,  pomegranate-like fruit character and chalky background minerality.  Josh Raynolds of Steven Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar said “Pungent, floral aromas of cherry, bitter chocolate, licorice and tobacco. Vibrant and nicely focused, with precise red fruit flavors and a chewy texture. This has very good cut thanks to firm acids and a strong mineral tone. Finishes on a note of cured meat, with youthful tannins and good length. 88 Points.”

 

Vinademoya Mencía 2004 $17.99 If you want to get an idea of what Bierzo is all about, this wine is a great place to start. Forest floor aroma, pomegranate fruit character and dry minerality combine on the palate to create the unique flavor that is typical of this region. Serve with grilled peppers and mushrooms or a simple rustic stew of potatoes and chorizo.

 

Tilenus Pagos de Posada 2001$37.99 This shows how, in the right hands, the Mencía grape can produce elegant, rich and distinctive wines. Carefully selected old vine Mencía from a single estate vineyard is aged briefly in oak before bottling. Multi-layered fruit character with a floral tinge blends well with an underlying mineral foundation. The oak adds depth and a savory aspect that balances the rich fruit. This is a fine candidate for taking along to accompany a celebratory restaurant meal (chances are they don’t have it on the wine list).

 

03/29/07

Albariño

Do we love Albariño? Yes we do! So imagine how excited we were to see Tim Teichgraeber’s thorough and informative article in the San Francisco Chronicle last week all about this delightful, crisp white wine from the Atlantic coastal region of Spain.

In less than twenty years the Albariño variety has come from near obscurity (even the Spanish didn’t drink them back then)  to its current status as the white wine of choice for many American wine lovers who are fatigued from too many rich, buttery, barrel fermented white wines.

The clean, crisp, citrusy flavors of Albariño wines combine with a bit of background minerality to keep the wines refreshing.  The bright acidity makes these wines particularly food friendly. They pair well with a wide range of foods from salads to cheeses and cured meats but are particularly well suited to seafood meals. It comes as no surprise that Albariño grows in popularity with each new vintage.

As winter departs, the appearance of Albariño wines on the dinner table are (like the first robin of spring) a sign that the cold season is past and we can start to look forward to the green leaves, flower buds and sunny weather that is just around the corner.

Her are some of our current favorites:

 

Lagar de Bouza Albariño 2005 was $14.99, NOW $10.99 An excellent value just got better. The 2005 Lagar de Bouza is lemony and bright with a bit of green apple fruit character in the mix. This dry, lively wine is specially priced to encourage you to take home a box to have around the house for whenever the mood strikes you.

 

Lícia Albariño 2005 $15.99 From the same winemakers who brought us the exclusive single vineyard Albariño called Finca Arantei comes this well priced second label that is new to the US market. Lícia is crisp and lemony, with a hint of floral richness held in check by the dry mineral component found in all the best wines from the region.

 

Fefiñanes Albariño 2005 $16.99 Long before these wines were popular, Fefinanes was growing Albariño in Rias Baixas. Founded in 1904, this winery has achieved a fine balance between the dry mineral side of Albariño and the more floral aromatic elements of the grape. An outstanding value.

 

Carballal Albariño 2005 $17.99 Another new product for the US market, Carballal is clean and crisp, with gentle citrus blossom aroma and a bit of grapefruit to balance the dry mineral foundation of the wine.

 

Laxas Albariño 2005 $17.99 Pronounce the name of this wine ‘luscious’, and you start to get an idea of how it tastes. Ripe aromas of honeysuckle and tangerine along with full-bodied flavors of green plum and golden delicious apple predominate without totally masking the underlying minerality that maintains the balance of flavors.

 

Avian Albariño 2005 $23.99 The flagship wine from Bodegas Castro Martin (some of you may remember the excellent Castro Martin Albariño which is sadly no longer available). Avian is straw colored with a tinge of green and a dry, steely foundation supporting rich floral aromas and flavors of citrus and pear.