June 2025 Crianza Club

In the wine clubs of the last few months, we’re talked a lot about both Spain’s shift towards single vineyard winemaking as well as many producers deciding to pursue lower alcohol, terroir driven styles of their wines: a movement that can be referred to as the New Spain. This month, we get to talk about another highly prominent Riojan voice in this space: Telmo Rodríguez. It is safe to say that Rodrígues is definitely a driving force behind the New Spain, but his own take on the shift has a distinct edge. Rodríguez desires not only to encourage winemakers to focus their efforts on winemaking from distinct terroirs, to old school style of wine making as well. When he says this, he is not referring to the bulk, brand-oriented mass production that was all too common in Rioja during the mid twentieth century, but rather winemaking that came even before. Instead, he is referring to an older approach to winemaking that predates the 1900s, when bodegas were small and focused on individual expressions of Rioja’s varied landscape. Famously, when he is asked about what kind of wine he strives to make, Rodríguez answers, “We dream of making the best Rioja wine of the 18th century”.

Rodríguez’s winemaking pedigree is highly distinguished, having learnt at the University of Bordeaux and practiced under the winemaking greats of Cos d’Estournel, Trévallon, and the Chave family in the Northern Rhône. For those unfamiliar, this is as if he was taught music under The Rolling Stones, Pink Floyd, and Pearl Jam. He returns to his birthplace in Alavesa, but when confronted with the prospect of replacing his father as head winemaker at Remelluri, he refuses on the grounds of creative differences. This is upsetting specifically to me because Remelluri is one of my favorite producers, but I digress. Rodríguez instead embarked with his friend Pablo Eguzkiza to focus on winemaking prospects featuring some of Rioja's oldest vineyards. In 1994, Compañia de Vinos Telmo Rodríguez was formed. 

Today Telmo Rodríguez continues to advocate for Burgundian styles of regional classification and wine making and still makes Riojan wine under his Bodega Lanzaga estate. This month’s ‘Corriente’ is one of the estate’s core expressions. The name refers to an early 20th century mode of wine classification, ‘corrient’, meaning common, casual, or everyday, and ‘Selecto’, or wines of special quality, for special occasions. The wine is fermented in large concrete vats before laying down to rest for 10-12 months in oak barrels of varying ages. The resultant wine is a total joy to drink. It balances maturity with amicable texture, while paying homage to the small winemakers of the 1920s. Black and red berries that are both tart and ripe sit beside warming spicy oak tones. The tannins are earth and rustic, but fine grained enough to be enjoyed alone. Pair with roasted meats, grilled vegetables, or if you would like to pursue the everyday theme, a classic American cheeseburger.