November 2024 Blanco y Tinto Club

Bodega Belondrade 2022 ‘Quinta Apolonia’ Castilla y Leon Regular Price: $25.99 Club Price: $ 22.09 Buy Now

 Belondrade y Lurton, founded in 1994 by French winemaker Didier Belondrade, is a thoroughly modern Spanish winery known for its innovative approach to Verdejo, a white grape native to the Rueda region. Situated in Castilla y León, Belondrade y Lurton marries French winemaking traditions with Spanish terroir, creating a unique interpretation of Verdejo that has gained international acclaim. Drawing from Bordeaux influences, Didier saw the potential to treat Verdejo with the same complexity and care as French varietals.  He did so long before others - in 1994, Rueda and its surroundings was dominated by estates focused on mass produced Verdejos more focused on varietal character than elegance and finesse. The winery’s approach involves fermentation and aging in French oak barrels, a method rarely applied to Verdejo at the time, which adds layers of depth and structure.  Continuing their commitment to pioneering and pushing the boundaries, they were among the first estates to explore spontaneous fermentations starting in 2005, and fully committing to this now widely established approach by 2007.  

This distinctive style, balancing Verdejo's inherent brightness with the elegance imparted by natural fermentations and oak aging, has placed Belondrade y Lurton on the global map of fine winemaking. The winery has received numerous accolades, including consistent recognition from prestigious wine publications and critics, establishing it as a benchmark for Verdejo. Their wines are not only celebrated in Spain but also respected in markets across Europe and the United States, drawing a discerning audience seeking modern, terroir-driven expressions. Belondrade y Lurton remains a pioneering force in re-imagining Spanish white wines, with each vintage reflecting both the Rueda terroir (more on that below) and the refined influences of French winemaking heritage.

To speak to its terroir, we leaned on Belondrade's own summary (https://belondrade.com/nuestro-terroir/).  "The vineyards are located at an altitude of around 750 metres and just a few kilometres from the Duero River as it passes through Tordesillas. The climate is continental with little rainfall (between 300 and 350 mm per year), characterized by long, cold winters and short, hot summers, with a wide temperature range between day and night. The 40 hectares of its own vineyards are divided into 23 plots of different sizes. This mosaic of vines provides very different musts depending on the type of soil in each plot, its orientation, age, rootstocks and clones.  The soils of the plateau are of Cenozoic (or Tertiary) origin; they were formed about 60 million years ago and are characterized by their low organic matter content. They are mainly composed of a layer of pebbles of about 3 to 20 inches, a subsoil layer of clay and a deep layer of limestone. In each of the plots, pebbles, sand and clay are mixed in varying percentages, which gives the musts their own personality and style."

Photo courtesy Dutch Wine Apprentice

Belondrade Y Lurton's flagship wine is simply named after the winery.  Sporting a distinctive orange label, this 'main' label gathers accolades year after year, often scoring in the high 90s with many reviewers.  At a sticker price north of $60, it's high caliber and not for every occasion.  Enter the Quinta Apolonia.  It's a second bottling of the estate, conceived in 2002 as the most varietal expression of the Quinta San Diego estate.  Named after Didier's daugher Appolonie, it brings together the freshness of the plots that fermented in tanks and the structure and complexity of those that did so in barrels.  While a fresher, more approachable, and more affordable style, it fully exemplifies the vision of highlighting Verdejo's potential and emphasizing the terroir. 

The 2022 Quinta Apolonia is crafted with 50% barrel-aged wine and 50% stainless steel-aged Verdejo, it presents a vibrant balance between freshness and complexity. This dual approach highlights Verdejo’s crisp, citrusy character while lending subtle layers of texture. Quinta Apolonia’s blend of stainless steel and oak aging makes it approachable yet sophisticated, a wine that speaks to both the grape’s Spanish roots and Belondrade’s innovative, French-inspired winemaking.

Berta Valgañon 2022 Maturana Tinta, Rioja Regular Price: $31.99 Club Price: $ 27.19 Buy Now

Berta Valgañón, a native of Rioja, grew up immersed in the region’s winemaking culture, which deeply influenced her path. Coming from a family with strong agricultural ties, she developed a profound respect for the land and a fascination with Rioja's heritage. After studying enology and gaining experience in vineyards across Spain and Europe, Berta returned to Rioja with a vision: to craft wines that tell the story of lesser-known local varietals, like Maturana Tinta, and to elevate them through thoughtful, artisanal winemaking.

In 2014, she launched her own label, focusing on wines that honor Rioja’s diversity beyond the traditional Tempranillo and Garnacha grapes. From the outset, Berta’s label has emphasized low-intervention techniques, allowing the terroir and unique attributes of each grape to emerge naturally. Her commitment to biodiversity in the vineyard and restrained use of oak enables her wines to express a purity and authenticity that sets them apart.

Berta’s dedication has earned her respect within the Spanish wine community, and her label has quickly garnered attention from critics and wine enthusiasts seeking authentic, terroir-driven Rioja wines. With each bottle, she revives historical varieties like Maturana Tinta, which carry the essence of the region’s viticultural past and its potential for innovation. Her work is a celebration of Rioja’s lesser-seen dimensions, bringing heritage grapes back to the forefront of modern Spanish winemaking.

Traditionally overshadowed by Rioja’s dominant Tempranillo, Maturana Tinta almost faded into obscurity. The grape, with records dating back centuries, was nearly lost due to phylloxera and low cultivation in the 20th century. However, Maturana Tinta’s unique character—a profile marked by deep color, high acidity, and robust structure—caught the attention of winemakers like Valgañón, who recognized its potential to produce distinct, memorable wines.  We have featured Maturana Tinta in the wine club before and try to avoid repetition or bringing personal preferences to bear on club wine selection too much. But, when we tasted this rich example of the varietal, we thought a re-run was worth it. 

The 2022 Maturana Tinta from Berta Valgañón offers a fascinating taste of Rioja’s heritage. This vintage presents a wine with intense color and a rich, dark fruit profile balanced by natural acidity. Valgañón’s light touch in the winery allows Maturana Tinta’s unique characteristics to stand out: earthy undertones, vibrant acidity, and firm tannins. This rare, expressive wine reflects both the historic roots of Rioja and Valgañón’s dedication to reviving Spain’s lesser-known varietals, providing a taste that feels both grounded and refreshingly modern.  Most of all, this wine instantly called out to us:  "pair me with a holiday meal".  Its spicy, earthy richness will go as well with a traditional turkey feast as it will with a non-traditional (spare the turkey) paella.