September 2024 Blanco Y Tinto

Clandestina Blanca Sense Papers, Xarello Pénedes Regular Price: $31.99 Club Price: $27.19 Buy Now

At the Spanish Table, we taste a lot of wines. What I’m often looking for are unique and interesting wine experiences.  I’ve found one in Bodega Clandestina. Established in 2018 by the incredibly passionate Ferran Lacruz, this Catalonian winery is all about pushing boundaries and creating exceptional wines. Ferran's innovative approach is shaking things up and setting new benchmarks in winemaking. Forget any preconceptions about natural wine— I think this is like a little adventure in a bottle.

At Bodega Clandestina Ferran is making a statement with a focus on creating natural wines that are free from the constraints of appellations and regulations. The result? Wines that truly reflect the essence of their terroir. Ferran and his team are committed to small, meticulous vinifications using grapes from organic and biodynamic agriculture. Their primary focus is on the local Xarello and the intriguing Carignan Blanc, but their adventurous spirit means they’re always exploring new possibilities. Xarello is the perfect discovery for white wine fans who are on the lookout for compelling yet lesser-known grapes.

What sets Bodega Clandestina apart is their dedication to pure, clean natural wines. Every step of the process, from manual harvesting to wild yeast fermentation, is designed to preserve the integrity of the grapes. The winery uses skin fermentation for all their wines, which reflects their belief in the importance of grape skins in natural winemaking.

They’re also known for their innovative aging methods, experimenting with amphoras, demijohns, and barrels to find the perfect maturation. The commitment to their craft is evident: no additives, no added sulfites, no fining, and no filtering—just pure, evolving wines that capture the spirit of their region while not getting too “wild” in the glass.

The mix of lemon, grapefruit, and orange zest, complement the ripe green apple, pear, peach, and raspberry notes. In the intriguing mineral notes there's a touch of concrete and stone alongside a pretty and slight honey finish. With its Mediterranean flair and refreshing salinity, it pairs beautifully with light seafood dishes.  -- JL

Orben, Rioja Regular Price: $41.99 Club Price: $35.69 Buy Now

Founded in the mid-1990s by the Anton family, renowned for their Artevino ventures (Izadi, Vetus, Villacreces), and a select group of restaurateurs, Orben is a modern and elegant estate nestled near the picturesque village of Laguardia. The estate cultivates 79 small plots, each planted between 1945 and 1954, in the enchanting Rioja Alavesa region of Spain's Basque Country. Climatic, geographical, and varietal factors all come together here to produce small productions of very personal wines.

Orben Tempranillo is crafted from over seventy tiny parcels of old-vine, head-pruned Tempranillo, with a small amount of Graciano. Despite the venerable age of the vines, Orben showcases a contemporarty Rioja style. The grapes, sourced from high-elevation vineyards on sandy, limestone soils, are harvested by hand, destemmed, and fermented in stainless steel tanks. The wine then matures for fifteen months in new French oak barrels. The result is a full-bodied wine rich in dark fruit flavors while maintaining a bright and food-friendly profile. This Tempranillo would pair perfectly with a Moroccan-inspired chili with Merguez sausage or a dark, rich and spicy Mole.

James Suckling gave Orben 94 points, describing it as "full-bodied, round, and flavorful, with dark berries, chocolate, and a hint of wet earth. Layered and rich."
As autumn approaches, it's the perfect time to experiment with hearty, richly flavored dishes. Consider reaching for a bottle of Orben to complement your fall feasts. - JL