September 2024 Blanco y Branco Club
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Alselmo Mendez
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The Azores, a Portuguese archipelago in the middle of the Atlantic often referred to as the “Hawaii of Europe” has been producing some fantastic under the radar wines lately. While most Azorean wines are produced for domestic consumption, we got our hands on a limited quantity (only 700 cases produced a year) of Anselmo Mendes ‘Magma’ white wine made from 100% Verdelho grapes.
Hailing from Biscoitos, the wine region located on Terceira (one of the nine volcanic islands of the Azores) this wine employs some very unique and traditional viticulture practices. Vineyards are planted in a sci-fi-like landscape called ‘curraletas’. Picture vineyard's composed of reticulated black basalt rock walls, dark volcanic soils and scruffy low-lying vines dotted along the coastline. The ‘curraletas’ vineyard architecture not only provides protection from the harsh winds and saltwater but also creates a “greenhouse effect” allowing full grape maturation. Interestingly, many of these ‘currais’ or ‘curraletas’ systems also consist of houses, cellars, mills and churches within the carved out paths and roads. Built by generations of farmers over the centuries they were abandoned and neglected until recently. While modern winemaking technology is available, winemakers in Biscoitos still choose to employ “old-school” methods. At Anselmo Mendes, they hand-pick the grapes and carry them back to the winery in wicker baskets. Added bonus: this wine uses wild native yeasts and is dry farmed. Could there be anything more idyllic?…
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Jané Ventura 2021
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Malvasia is a grape of far reach. Its many forms range from the Malvasia called Malmsey in the Azore, to Malvasia Istarska grown on Croatia's Istrian peninsula, and more than 3 different regional Malvasias in Italy. While there are variations in character, most Malvasia grapes are described as making wines with highly aromatic intensity. Floral notes, honey, spice, and citrus are often cited. We featured a wine a made from Malvasia grown in Mallorca in the wine club in the past. Interestingly, it was so intensely floral and perfumed that most members found it to be a bit over the top. Malvasias from the area near Sitges, a coastal town in Catalonia, are known for greater balance. The climate of Sitges features warm days and cool nights, which together with the the unique flavor profile of the Malvasia de Sitges varietal, produces wines that balance ripeness and aromaticity with acidic freshness. The Sitges area features calcareous soils similar to what is found in neighboring Penedes, where the limestone soils are impart a clean, dry, mineral nature that Penedes white wines and cavas are famous for.
Started in 1914, the maker estate Jané Ventura is owned and operated by the fourth generation - Gerard Jané. The Jané's focus is working with indigenous varietals in a sustainable way. The vineyards are located in the Baix Penedes area of the DO Penedes, influenced by the Mediterranean Sea, mineral presence, and local herbs. Gerard has a passion for both the local music culture and the picturesque landscape, both of which are portrayed in the wines and on the labels. Gerard has a holistic approach to his work, involving his love for the soil, grapes, music, sea and air, all of which combine to make these truly special wines.
When you look where the grapes for this wine are grown, you might almost call it a "surf and turf"scenarios, a small one at that. One vineyard sits at 300 ft altitude 1.5 mi from the sea, the other at 600 ft, about 5 miles farther inland. Combined, the two vineyards add up to less than 3 acres.
Vineyards of Jané Ventura (photo courtesy Jané Ventura estate)
80% of the grapes are fermented in a stainless tank and 20% in a neutral (2 year old) large format oak barrel. All is aged 5 months, then bottled. The result is pale lemon yellow white wine joy in a bottle. Aromas of tropical fruits (mango, passion fruit), pineapple, peach and citrus mesh with a fresh background of fresh grass. It envelopes your mouth with aromatic richness, but is underpinned by a lively and natural acidity. Both of these elements are well integrated, giving the wine a long persistent finish. If you have ever been in the coastal areas of Catalonia between Barcelona and Valencia (a long and gorgeous stretch), you will know how rich in beauty, sunshine, culture, and good food this area is.
This wine is a sort of transporter. It transports you to restaurant Maricel on the beach in Sitges, where they open a cool bottle of this after they've seated you at the outdoor table overlooking the beach. Your friend arrives on a scooter, summer dress and all, and takes of her helmet to give you a kiss on each cheek. You order grilled octopus with smoked potato to start with and then split a plate of lobster ravioli with your friend. Life is good! One more glass, please!
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