A Benjamin Button kind of winery! Bodegas Tradicion, despite its name, is one of the youngest wineries in Jerez, created in 1998. They purchased wines (botas and soleras) from Osborne, Bobadilla, Croft, Domecq and Sandeman and now they own around 1,000. They kind of started the other way round, selling only VORS (and one VOS), and working their way towards younger wines to feed their soleras. The wines are in charge of Jose Maria Quiros, who was winemaker at Agustin Blazquez and later at Domecq and has been a consultant for Alvear in Montilla-Moriles for 15 years. His aim is to preserve traditions and keep the wines as pure and true to their style as possible, and they come through as clean, elegant, precise, well-defined, focused, true to their type and indeed traditional. All wines have a hand-written lot number and year on the label. "The NV Tradicion Amontillado VORS, certainly has the more complex and subtle nose of all these VORS and is on average 45 years old. It has a very clean nose, with elegance and complexity, powerful but subtle notes of hazelnuts, honey and even some dates. The medium-bodied palate shows a sharp wine with strong salinity, it has the power and the lightness, in a very difficult combination." 96 points Wine Advocate